Ecuador might not be the first country that comes to mind when you think of South America, but that’s exactly why I knew it would make the perfect first trip. I spontaneously went backpacking over Labor Day weekend and ended up having the adventure of a lifetime exploring the vibrant streets of Quito and the adrenaline-filled town of Baños. Keep reading for my personal stories, must visit spots, and tips for making the most of your Ecuador adventure!

Fun Facts About Ecuador

• Quito is the second highest capital city in the world, surrounded by four Andean peaks that locals believe are gods watching over the valley.
• Ecuador’s flag shares the same yellow, blue, and red as Colombia and Venezuela, a reminder that all three were once part of Gran Colombia.
• Ecuador is one of the world’s most biodiverse countries, home to everything from Amazonian jungle to high-altitude páramo grasslands and the Galápagos Islands.
• The Andean condor is the national bird, known for its massive wingspan and its “wool jacket” appearance around the neck.
• Despite straddling the equator, temperatures in the highlands can be chilly, ponchos, coca tea, and wool blankets are essentials!

Arriving in Quito

We landed in Quito, Ecuador’s capital, around 8 p.m. and I still couldn’t believe I was in South America. Immigration was quick and smooth. The airport is beautiful and clean, all glass and tile.

Our taxi from Secret Garden Hostel cost $28 USD (currency + outlets are the same as the States), and it wound its way through the steep, narrow streets of the city. You can contact the company through WhatsApp and they situate everything. Quito is more emblematic of a town perched on the mountains than a sprawling capital. Colorful colonial buildings climb the hills, clothes hanging from balconies, twinkling fairy lights connected between buildings, and the Andes rise in the distance like silent guardians. From afar, the huge, grey statue of the Virgin Mary and the spires of the Basilica del Voto pierce the skyline, grounding the city in history and faith.

Secret Garden Hostel

Secret Garden Hostel is multi-level and tucked into the hillside. The rooftop is stunning, offering jaw dropping views of the city. If you can, I’d recommend getting altitude sickness medication beforehand. Quito is the world’s second-highest city, after all! The volunteers welcomed me like family, and the hostel has a warmth that makes it feel lived in. Guests can borrow the iconic Ecuadorian ponchos, even at the equator it gets cold in the Andes.

Beyond being a hostel, it doubles as a travel agency where you can book everything from Cotopaxi hikes to Galápagos trips or Amazon adventures. Amenities include a cafe, rooftop bar, and restaurant offering international cuisine and daily happy hour specials. Breaky was delicious! The hostel provides free Wi-Fi, luggage storage, and organizes free walking tours at 9:30am daily to help guests explore the historic center of Quito. Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, Secret Garden Hostel offers a welcoming and well-equipped base for your travels in Ecuador. It became my home for a little while:)

I stayed in a 16-person dorm for $6 a night. Despite being a dorm hosting many, it was peaceful and quiet. The beds were the comfiest I’ve had in a hostel, framed in light wood and covered with thick wool blankets that reminded me of the loft bed I always wanted as a kid. Each hall has two bathrooms nearby, and the lockers are spacious enough to store all your belongings safely. Despite being a large dorm, the space felt cozy and personal, striking a rare balance between comfort and practicality.

Hiking Cotopaxi & Cute Alpacas!

The journey from Quito to Cotopaxi began early, with a $50 tour booked through the hostel’s WhatsApp chat. The drive took about 1.5 to 2 hours, winding through the Andean highlands. Along the way, we stopped at a local breakfast spot where our group of around 12 gathered. The café, cash only and rustic, offered a continental breakfast for $5. The meal included eggs, fresh fruit, and bread. Simple yet nourishing fare to fuel us for the hike ahead. The café also served coca leaf tea, a traditional remedy to help with altitude sickness (you’re up 16,000 feet!), and had a little shop selling wool jackets, perfect for the chilly mountain air. Outside, we even saw two alpacas and got to feed them carrots, a moment that felt straight out of a postcard.

On the hike, I met fellow travelers. Most were staying at Secret Garden, from Scotland, Canada, and Italy. Cotopaxi is a hard hike, no sugarcoating it (And I didn’t even summit! I recently had a procedure done and didn’t want to push it.) The hike to Cotopaxi’s base camp reminded me of Cerro Negro in Nicaragua: the way every step demands more than you think you have. It wasn’t as long or as grueling as Acatenango in Guatemala, but the two hour climb to base camp tested me just the same. Halfway through, I caught myself thinking, “FUCK, why do I do this to myself,” but somehow, I always push through. Hiking turns me nonverbal lol. I focus on each step, the wind whipping against my flushed face, the chill biting at my hands; but I keep going until I reach the top.

Cotopaxi, meaning “Neck of the Moon” in Quechua, rises majestically at 5,897 meters (19,347 feet). Its crescent-shaped crater looks like a moon’s neck, a detail that feels almost poetic after the grueling climb. The páramo ecosystem stretches around us, windswept and rugged, dotted with mosses, lichens, and hardy grasses like Stipa ichu. Bright orange chuquiragua flowers punctuate the muted earth tones, and the glacier capped summit looms above, a reminder of the grandeur and scale of the Andes. Reaching base camp, despite every moment of struggle, feels like showing up exactly where you’re supposed to be:)

The wind was relentless and the cold sharp, so I’d recommend bringing hiking glasses to protect against the grit and sun. At base camp, a small wooden lodge overlooks the Andes, with clouds casting moving shadows across the mountains. You can buy little snacks there and even get your passport stamped. Though technically it might invalidate it, so I’d bring a journal instead. Our tour guides were patient, supportive, and took beautiful photos, capturing moments of the group against the stark, breathtaking landscape.

Bike riding is also an option, it looked like a blast! I, at the ripe age of 25, can still not ride a bike. I know, I know. But, I had a great time watching everyone else who rode down the volcano!

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Quito Walking Tour

The free walking tour I joined through Secret Garden set my bar high. We began at the Basilica del Voto Nacional, a neo-Gothic masterpiece that towers above Quito’s historic center. Its spires reach nearly 377 feet, making it the tallest church in South America, and it is adorned not with gargoyles but with stone carvings of Ecuadorian animals like iguanas, condors, and tortoises. I had first heard of this church in one of my favorite books, To Shake the Sleeping Self, and it was surreal to stand in front of something that had once been just a line in an audiobook, now right before my eyes.

Quito’s street inclines are steep and with the altitude I was huffing and puffing, each breath reminding me of just how high up the city sits. Our guide introduced us to the phrase “Chulla Vida,” which is the Ecuadorian way of saying embrace life while you can. Backpackers wandered into Old Town, where colorful balconies overlooked cobblestone streets, and shops spilled out with textiles, hats, and handmade crafts. We stopped for chocolate tastings made from Ecuador’s famed cacao and sampled a local spirit infused with a sour fruit.

One of my favorite parts of the tour was participating in a Sanjuanito dance, a traditional Andean circle dance. Our large group moved together while wearing bright masks and the distinctive woven hats of the region. What a beautiful and special moment 🙂

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Chiva Bus Night: From Rooftop Stories to Dancing Under Quito’s Lights

Back at the hostel after the walking tour, happy hour extended into hours that blurred into one another. The sky from the rooftop turned fuchsia, and I found myself sitting with new friends from France, Italy, and Turkey. We swapped travel stories, wrote in journals, and laughed like we’d known each other for years. To sit independently at a table with a few travelers under an unknown sky crowned in magically overlapped timelines, it’s the biggest privilege in life. It’s a branch of story difficult to put into words. Moments such as those are just precious. The rooftop of Secret Garden becomes this perfect bubble of warmth where time disappears. My need for “newness” was satisfied; when I solo travel, I get to discover who I am without anyone I know around. I am reborn again each and every time.

Because it was a Saturday, a bunch of us boarded the Chiva bus, a louder, more colorful, open air version of the chicken buses I’d known in Central America. It cost $12 and included unlimited alcohol. As the night breathed around us, volunteers passed around canelazo, a hot concoction of cinnamon and aguardiente that tastes like a warm hug. For some reason they put the plastic shot glasses on strings to wear around your neck; it felt very counter intuitive LOL. Latin music thumped through the speakers, dancing as the bus rolled through Quito’s streets. Flicking our cigarette ash over the open railings, into the night sky. Feeling both reckless and alive, as if the city itself was winking at us.

Our final stop was at at Safaera, a discoteca-karaoke hybrid tucked above Plaza Mayor. Its corridors beamed with Latin beats, neon lights, and dancing. It’s one of Quito’s most talked-about nightlife spots and I’d highly recommend if you’re looking for a nightclub in Quito. Pushing past the crowd, we danced under the stylish decor, feeling the beautiful chaos that pulls strangers into instant kinship. Quito in general isn’t a super touristy, so I really enjoyed getting a sense of what locals did on the weekends. To me, partying IS a part of experiencing a city’s culture. Everybody was so kind and I had a blast 🙂

Eventually, me, Andrew, and Zach tumbled back to the hostel after our taxi driver so graciously drove us to the McDonalds drive through. We ate in the comfy bean bag lounge, wrapped in colorful borrowed ponchos, buzzing from the night. Now at 4:30 am, Holly’s ADHD brain was still looking for one last visceral high. My eyes were heavy. But, given my short time in Ecuador, I wanted to make the most of every second. We “walked” onto the rooftop in our ponchos, empty and serene, only hearing the whispers of the wind. Laying on the net and appreciating the serendipity of backpacking. A book moment for sure. One that reminded me I am alive and I will treasure forever<3

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The Road to Baños

With only thirty minutes of sleep, I packed my bag, forgetting my glasses, and joined Tyler and Andrew on the shuttle to Baños. We booked the excursion through Get Your Guide. The ride itself was a lesson in Ecuador’s landscapes. Rivers cut through green valleys, and the volcanoes rose like ancient sentinels in the distance. Along the way, we stopped at a local cava where I probably asked our tour guide too many questions, but to me, every detail is part of the learning experience. Banos is the “Adventure Capital” of Ecuador and about a three hour ride from Quito. Here, there are so many locations to get your adrenaline pumping, hot springs, hummingbirds, and more! It’s a must do in Ecuador!

Casa del Árbol & The Swing at the End of the World

Our first stop in Baños was the Swing at the End of the World at Casa del Árbol. Perched above the valley, the swing gave me the stomach dropping thrill I’ve always chased when traveling, with the volcano Tungurahua looming behind. The wind, the view, and the nervous laughter of others made it unforgettable.

The swing gained worldwide fame after a stunning photograph taken here won a top spot in a National Geographic travel photography contest in 2014. Captured by Canadian marine scientist Sean Hacker Teper, the image showcased a person swinging with the active Tungurahua Volcano erupting in the background, making it an iconic representation of Ecuador’s natural beauty and adventure.

El Pailón del Diabl

Next, we visited El Pailón del Diablo, or the Devil’s Cauldron. This waterfall is one of Ecuador’s most famous. You have to see it in person to hear it’s roaring cascade. The rocks form a natural illusion resembling a devil’s face, and the staircases carved into the cliffside bring you close enough to feel the raw force of the water. At over 260 feet tall, the falls leave you awed by nature’s power, your heart racing with every step. Climbing the bridges scared the shit out of me a bit, but it’s totally worth the bucket list moment. After, our small tour group took a cable car across a different waterfall.

Lunch at Miramelindo

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant spa called Miramelindo, a serene spot perfect for recharging. I got a passionfruit and ginger smoothie along with a quinoa and rice salad, fresh flavors that fueled me for the rest of the day’s adventures.

During lunch, we met a couple from Canada who had been traveling through Peru before arriving in Baños. They told me about Inca Kola, a bright yellow, sweet soda that’s often referred to as “Peru’s national drink.” Curious, I tried it and was struck by its unique flavor, reminiscent of bubblegum with a citrusy twist. I’m not the biggest soda person, but I really enjoyed it!

Optional Ziplining & Bungee Jumping

The last stop was optional ziplining, $10 each way, with photos and videos for an additional $5, they are sent later through WhatsApp. From the lines, you soar over rivers and cliffs, the Andes sprawling around you blanketed with beautiful waterfalls. There are three different positions you can choose to zipline from; the workers provide different equipment for each. For the truly daring, bungee jumping is also available. I chose to zipline, it was a happy medium for me as heights scare me a bit. My family calls me “Bird,” and this nickname never felt so fitting in my twenty five years.

*An important note that while it is possible to do Banos in a day from Quito, it is a LONG day. We were stuck in traffic for three hours because it was a day before kids went back to school. I’d recommend spending at least two days in Banos. Unfortunately, I was short on time, otherwise I would have! We were in the van at 6:30am and got back around 10pm. If you have the availability, I’d suggest taking the $30 shuttle that leaves from Secret Garden to Banos daily. $189 is a hefty price for an excursion. I don’t regret the tour and I had a great experience, but to save money and leverage your time, I’d suggest staying at least a few days.

*Another little note I wanted to mention is that many of the rest stops on the way to Banos don’t have TP in the bathrooms. Some, you can pay a quarter to get some but I’d suggest packing travel toilet paper just to have in case!

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Basílica del Voto Nacional

On my last morning in Quito, Labor Day back home, I decided to finally make the climb up the Basílica del Voto Nacional. It’s about a 15 minute walk from Secret Garden Hostel, and Quito’s streets are steep and winding. By the time I got there, I was out of breath and ready to collapse. Asthma queens rise up. Entry is $2 and $4 more gets you up into the towers.

The basilica itself is incredible. It’s built in a neo-Gothic style out of stone and cement, and construction started in 1892. It wasn’t technically finished until decades later and is still considered “unfinished” today. Inside, it’s covered with animals instead of the usual gargoyles. As you climb the towers, you can spot iguanas, condors, tortoises, armadillos, and other creatures tucked into the walls and along the edges. Each carving has a little story behind it. There are 24 chapels inside, one for each province, and a crypt that serves as a national pantheon.

Climbing the narrow staircases and catwalks up the towers was intense. I was hyperventilating at times; there are no elevators to get to the viewpoint where to can see both towers. BUT, it is so worth it. I took deep breaths, told myself I could do it, and successfully made it to the top! The views at the top are insane. You can see Quito stretching out below with its colorful rooftops, the Virgin on El Panecillo in the distance, and the Andes mountains folding around the city.

Exploring Old Town

Old Town Quito is beautiful and full with historic charm. The golden churches shine like little suns, their gilded interiors catching every bit of light. I kept stopping to stare at the intricate woodwork and the way the sunlight moved across the walls. There’s a library, street vendors selling crafts and other knick-knacks, and churches.

There are the little treats you can’t miss. I grabbed a cheese and rice empanada with sugar on top and was the perfect snack for exploring. Warm, slightly sweet, and just enough to keep my energy up as I meandered through plazas, past fountains, and under balconies that watched the city for centuries. I ate at a restaurant with two travelers we met from the walking tour, one from Rome and one from Cali! The juices were the best I’ve had in my whole life; soo refreshing! Los Jugos de la sucre was the name of the restaurant in Old Town.

Tattoos!

Of course I had to get a tattoo to have a permanent reminder of my time in Ecuador. Don Genaro Tattoo is right across the street from Secret Garden and it was only $35. Tyler and I met up with David, one of the fellow travelers from the hostel, and we each picked something fun. I got a hummingbird, Tyler got an airplane, and David went for a cuy, which is what Ecuadorians call guinea pigs that are a sacred cuisine dish. Our inside joke became, “It’s a bird, it’s a plane, it’s a… cuy?” and it will make me laugh every time I look at our little tattoos.

Notes, Takeaways, & Observations

I will cherish the moments I shared with the people I met on this trip forever. From meeting fellow travelers at Secret Garden Hostel to hiking Cotopaxi and chasing waterfalls, these are the moments that stick with you. When I am old, I will smile reminiscing on these journals and photos from long ago. Knowing we lived life to the fullest. I hope I left a little piece of my heart with them as they have left with me.

Ecuador just has a way of getting under your skin. I can’t stop thinking about all the places I didn’t get to fully explore such as the Amazon, the Galapagos, the smaller towns outside of Quito. God, I really want to see those pink dolphins. Even though my time in Ecuador was short, my belief still continues. Travel, no matter what duration, is time well spent. You’re learning and experiencing new things, meeting people you most likely would not have met otherwise, and discovering parts of yourself.

The hospitality of Latin America is something I’ve always admired, and Ecuadorians truly embody it. The geology of Ecuador is beautiful, dramatic, and fascinating. From the mountains that cradle Quito to the volcanic landscapes surrounding Baños, every view could be a postcard. If you like hiking, you will love Ecuador. The history is rich, layered, and palpable in the streets, the churches, and the markets. You can feel it in the architecture, in the food, in the traditions that are carried on today.

Ecuador has its political issues like any country, but that doesn’t take away from how incredible it is to visit. It is ranked safer than the U.S, actually if that’s a concern of yours. I felt safe and very welcomed in Quito. I left Ecuador feeling inspired, enriched, and deeply grateful. I felt a connection to the land, the culture, and the people that I’ll carry in my soul no matter where life takes me. This trip reminded me why I love to travel. Not simply to see beautiful places (which is nice and all), but to sincerely experience them, meet the people who call them home, and to take a little piece of their world home with me. Ecuador, I promise I’ll be back. Chulla Vida!

Ecuador In A Nutshell

• Quito’s Old Town is pure magic with golden churches, cobblestone streets, and cheese rice empanadas with sugar on top that you have to try.
• Banos is an adventure playground: swings over cliffs, the Diablo drop, ziplining, and bungee jumping if you’re brave enough.
• Ecuadorians are warm, friendly, and hilarious. They made me feel welcome everywhere, and I loved noticing how many were short like me hehe
• Don’t leave without leaving a piece of your heart there, because Ecuador will definitely leave one with you.

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