I spent Fourth of July weekend bouncing between Granada and León with nothing but a backpack, a few half planned ideas, and zero expectations. What I found was adventure, connection, and my favorite country I’ve had the privilege of visiting (so far.)

The craving to divert from the canonical emerged once again, leaving me ravenous for adventure. I sailed verdant isletas, boarded down an active volcano, danced in a treehouse in the jungle, and somehow ended up at a beach party on a school bus full of strangers. No fireworks this year, instead I had the trip of a lifetime! Read below for how I spent my solo trip through Nicaragua 🙂

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Granada, Nicaragua

I arrived in Granada at 10 p.m. after landing at MGA airport. Entering through immigration was thorough; staff asked detailed questions about occupational status, reasons for travel and warned certain professions like journalists might face difficulties entering the country. Visitors should be prepared to pay a $10 cash fee upon arrival, it’s crucial to have cash on hand. Card isn’t accepted at most places – you’ll need to retrieve cash through an ATM or by guys on the street. Once I cleared customs and earned a new stamp, I shared a cab with another traveler from the US who arrived shortly after me. The ride I booked was through Hostel Oasis ($40, $20/pp) via email.

Oasis Hostel in Granada is a fantastic place to stay and such a great bang for your buck. It’s a social hostel, but not too chaotic. The included breakfast was absolutely delicious – rotating daily from pancakes to Gallo Pinto burritos with local coffee. The staff are some of the kindest humans I’ve met.

Starting at $15 per night, Hostel Oasis offers private rooms/dorms. Some include fans + air conditioning depending on the selection. Truly a lifesaver in Granada’s heat (ranging from 95-100°F during my time). The hostel was clean with a pool in the courtyard, perfect for cooling off. The foyer/common area contains colorful woven hammocks, stone paths, and chairs where backpackers hang out + initiate their next move.

Dorms + Amenities

It was freaking HOT, but the AC is turned on at night in certain dorms and the fan attached to my bed helped. No curtains, but the provided woven blanket can be doubled as one for a bit of privacy. DJ, my bunk neighbor from Germany, gave me the genius idea! Occasionally, street disturbance woke me up as heard through wooden panels, but it’s nothing out of the ordinary for hostels.

Towels can be rented for $1, which is a blessing while traveling because they take up a hefty amount of bag space. Also, it is perpetually the one item I always forget. The bathrooms + stalls are individual, water pressure was decent and better than most hostels I’ve stayed in.

Activities + Tours

Travelers can book activities through the hostel desk such as a booze cruise on Wednesdays that takes you around Lake Nicaragua. Other activities the hostel coordinates include free diving, walking tours of Granada, sunset/kayaking tours of the isletas, and daily shuttles to the lagoon. On the side of the front desk, there are clipboards with pens + paper to register.

Included Breakfast

Included in the cost of ones stay is breakfast every morning alongside the pool terrace. The menu rotates daily, ranging from banana pancakes to breakfast burritos filled with eggs and gallo pinto: a traditional Nicaraguan dish consisting of of rice and beans with spices and herbs. I don’t even like burritos, but this was one of the best things I have ever eaten. If you’re my coworker or met me for even five minutes, you know me and my coffee. Served in various patterned ceramic mugs; I gazed over the selection plotting my meticulous choice. The flavor profile was out of this world, bold, fruity and smooth.

Isletas Tour

On my first day in Granada I spontaneously booked the sunset isletas tour through the hostel. I originally planned on doing a ceramics tour, but it must be planned in advance with a min. of 4 people. Sometimes the best plans come spontaneously. This cost $18 and included transportation. About a 20 minute drive later, the boat rides sailed us through a maze of small islands formed centuries ago by volcanic eruptions.

As the sun began to set the sky turned into a canvas of oranges and pinks reflecting perfectly on the calm water. I did this tour alongside Sirki, a new friend I made while hanging out at the hostel pool. The first thing she said to me was, “YOU HAVE A JELLYFISH TATTOO, TOO!” A friendship was born. If a hostel includes breakfast, always, always go. It’s a fantastic and easy way to meet people, listen to new music, play some cards.

Her energy was memorably warm and welcoming, her kindness will stick with me forever. She showed me tiny dot tattoos on her arms done in hostel rooms from other countries, calling them “Friendship Freckles.” She told me it was a shame she didn’t bring her tattoo kit while backpacking; maybe one day!

Along the way, we spotted monkeys cupping drinking water from the lake and colorful birds hidden in the trees. The isletas are home to families who live a life completely shaped by the water. Their children don’t take a school bus, but row their own boats to get to school. Can you imagine? My arms would have been ripped as a kid lol

Instead of traffic jams there are quiet paddles. The culture is simple, beautiful. Differing vastly compared to the US’s “GO GO GO” demeanor. I have zero culture beyond pasta and Eagles games, so I love learning about and appreciating others’ where allowed. There are a few pricier Airbnbs scattered around offering travelers a chance to wake up surrounded by this unique landscape. The sunset tour is a must-do in Granada and provided a sense of how slow life moves here and connected to nature.

Salsa Dancing

Afterwards, the hostel hosted a salsa dancing night run by a local woman and her daughter. People grabbed free drinks before it started and the energy was lively! Nicaragua got me on rum & frescas. I had never tried this style of dance, it was exciting to try something new. Full of backpackers with the same thirst for the unknown. I met a woman whose cousin was in my small town college graduating class – all the way in Nicaragua!

Oasis hosts the salsa nights on Thursdays and they bring in a good crowd. We rotated dancing with all participants (both line + partner dances). Many smiles filling the room and I met a lot of other backpackers. It was a great event and a fantastic way to meet others. I didn’t do the best, but it’s all about having fun and not taking yourself too seriously.

Following the lessons, I sat at the high top tables and played board games with other solo travelers. Solo travel has always welcomed me at every table and embraced me with open arms. There is something so special about these fleeting moments in time with like-minded people who want the same things – to explore, connect, and learn. Hunger for the unknown and willingness to push the bounds of what’s “ordinary.”

*An interesting and borderline genius note regarding this hostel was everything can be charged to your room when you pay at check out. Food, drinks, tours, you name it, it all goes onto your “tab.” Additionally, it is located closely to the markets, churches, and attractions. They provide shuttles to all parts of Nicaragua for very fair prices.

Exploring Granada

Walking around Granada, horses trot along the cobblestone streets giving the city an old-world charm. The air is thickened with tempting smells of fresh tortillas, grilled meats, and local spices. Beautiful neoclassical and historic churches, scenic parks, and bustling markets make it an interesting city to visit.

Bean to Bar Workshop at ChocoMuseo

The Museo de Chocolate is a must for anyone with a sweet tooth or interest in food culture. The museum is free to walk around in. However, the business additionally offers hands-on experiences where visitors learn how chocolate is made from bean to bar in Nicaragua. I went with Evelyn, one of the girls I met getting breakfast at our hostel! I’m so happy we got to experience this together. The museum blends culture history and food in a way that’s both educational and enjoyable, making it a worthwhile stop whether traveling solo or with friends.

Iglesia de La Merced

Iglesia de La Merced is noted as one of the most iconic landmarks in Granada and a must-see. Built in the 1700s, this bright yellow church stands out with its baroque architecture and striking bell tower. The tower is open to climb and the view from the top is incredible. It is closed until 4pm, I learned the hard way. Instead, I attended mass amongst the intricate neoclassical interior. Quietly, I prayed to be led to the right people who will teach me what I need to learn, for special memories to be made, and expressed gratitude for having the privilege of experiencing a new place.

Travelers can see the whole city stretching out beneath with saturated rooftops, the sparkling Lake Nicaragua in the distance, and volcanoes framing the skyline. It reminded me of Antigua, Guatemala. The church itself has a long history, having survived earthquakes and centuries of change, yet it remains an active place of worship. Walking around the plaza, you’ll find street vendors, musicians, and locals enjoying the space.

Cafe de La Sonrisa

Cafe de La Sonrisa is not singularly a coffee shop, but doubles as a social mission. This cafe employs deaf/mute baristas. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, and staff was friendly and helpful. Besides magnificent coffee, the cafe raises awareness about the deaf community and encourages interaction through sign language basics you can learn while visiting.

Graphics of the alphabet are displayed on walls and tables, making it easy to communicate basic signs. There is some overlap between ASL + NSL and I’m glad I got to teach some signs, while learning new ones in tandem. Sincerely a unique experience combining quality coffee with a meaningful cause and community connection.

Friday Night Treehouse Rave

On the Fourth of July, I attended the iconic Treehouse Rave hosted by Treehouse Hostel just outside of Granada. This weekly jungle party is one of the most talked about events in Nicaragua’s backpacker scene drawing in travelers from all over the world.

Tickets are $30 and include round-trip transportation from hostel De Boca En Boca, making it easy to attend even if you are not staying at the hostel itself. Make sure to purchase a week in advance on their website, they sell out quickly! The Treehouse Hostel is tucked into the Mombacho Volcano Reserve. After the shuttle drop-off, there is a 15-20min uphill hike through the forest to reach the venue. (Keep this in mind before drinking or partaking in other activities)

I arrived around 4pm to catch sunset. The party takes place on multiple open-air platforms built into the trees surrounded by thick jungle with sweeping views of the canopy below. We saw some monkeys climbing in the trees! There’s a full bar, hammocks, DJ, lights, and plenty of space to dance or simply soak in the atmosphere. You’re in a treehouse in Nicaragua, after all. If you’re lucky, you can find a person applying glitter to everybody. I looked everywhere lmao. Legend has it, I’m still looking for the glitter lady. Maybe it was a mirage? Additionally, they offer kebabs + pizza in case you need a quick bite.

Almost everyone I met in the city was there; as if the entire backpacking community had gathered in one watering hole. The mix of house music, nature, and people made for a unique + memorable experience. I befriended three girls named Marie, Laura, and Nina. We even met up later in Leon, they made my trip beyond special ❤ By midnight, I was exhausted (feeling my age, now) and headed back early with two girls from my hostel.

We grabbed a tuk-tuk back down the hill and made our way back to Granada. It was so bumpy that I cracked up the entire ride home. The Treehouse Rave is absolutely worth the hype, just be sure to wear sturdy shoes, bring cash, and plan ahead. Who the hell can say they’ve been to a treehouse rave in Nicaragua? Do it for the lore!

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Leon, Nicaragua

Unapologetically scorching León was next on my list. I took the 6 a.m. shuttle from Granada through Bigfoot Hostel for $20 and it was about a 2hr ride. I had just gotten back from the Treehouse Party a few hours prior and barely slept. Is this what being 25 is about? Orlando from the front desk at Hostel Oasis was the absolute sweetest and made sure everyone was up and ready when the shuttle came. I don’t know how he was so cheerful that early, but I was grateful.

Most people did León first and then Granada. It makes more sense logistically because Granada is closer to MGA. Being my type B self, I did it the other way around, but I liked ending the trip in León. I also arrived at night, so a longer drive to Leon would have been even more exhausting. As soon as we arrived, the energy shifted. It was hotter, louder, more chaotic. Colonial churches pop up between blocks of street art vendors yell over motorbikes and there’s always something going on around the next corner.

This sign I’d been looking for caught my eye walking into Bigfoot Hostel; a few of the girls, one including Cora, and I laughed predicting it was only AI. We had met on Hostelworld a few weeks prior and while walking to the showers I thought, “Wait, I know you.” Such a sweet person and I’m glad we crossed paths. Can confirm: this is a genuine sign in front of the hostel LOL and adjacent to a cute ice cream shop.

Breaky @ Pan & Paz

Two girls on the shuttle to León generously invited me to walk over to breakfast with them the next morning which meant a lot to me; I was still adjusting to the new city. I was tired as shit and needed someone to pull me out of it. The three of us ended at Pan y Paz, a French style bakery a few blocks from the cathedral and easily one of my favorite stops in León. The atmosphere was peaceful with plants draping from the windows and the aroma of fresh bread drifting through the air. We spoke about the importance of travel and shared stories of our experiences. There’s something uniquely intimate about these interactions and I savor those moments with every person I meet traveling.

I ordered French toast and a lavender latte. The French toast was delightful, optimizing the right amount of sweetness. They also had vegetarian and gluten free options. Whether you go for breakfast or want a quiet break, Pan y Paz is one hundred percent worth the stop and only a short walk from Bigfoot!

Volcano Boarding With Bigfoot Hostel Nicaragua

This is what you come to Nicaragua to do. Volcano boarding with Bigfoot Hostel in León was 100% the most fun day of my life. Here’s how it went down:

First, our incredible guide Lester presented a brief video of the history of Cerro Negro in the lobby covered with painted global passport stamps. It’s the youngest volcano in Central America and first erupted in 1850. The sport of volcano boarding inaugurated when the founder of Bigfoot tested everything from mattresses to picnic tables before settling on the plywood and metal boards currently used.

Staff handed out backpacks containing orange jumpsuits, goggles, and the boards themselves. They recommended bringing two bottles of water, hiking shoes for the steep and strenuous hike, and a face covering to protect against ash and abrasions. They’re available for purchase at the hostel desk for $2. It looks badass and is a worthwhile investment, doubling as a unique souvenir. Volcano boarders can pay $5 to have someone carry the board, but I wanted to prove to myself I could do it, and somehow succeeded! There is no shame in paying, however. All funds go to supporting local families in the area!

Our group of about 40 piled into a truck for about an hour’s ride to the volcano. The hike up took about one hour minutes over loose black gravel and steep terrain. I was huffing and puffing like always. But, that’s part of the fun. A ginormous wasp landed on my leg and I froze. The tour guide of the group behind us walked behind and I frantically asked if he could help.

The man deadass took his thumb and index finger and squished it like it was nothing. I’m childishly terrified of bees (yes, at 25), and I appreciated his fearlessness and hospitality. Although I’m not fluent in Spanish, we spent the next few minutes laughing, so much I fell over in the dirt. The most universal language. Halfway up, the sky opened and it started pouring rain. The rain soaked the ash making everything heavier and the air cooler.

At the summit and viewing a volcano erupting, we suited up in orange gear and waited for our turns to slide down the 42-degree slope. The ride only lasts a minute but it was exhilarating. You can control your speed and the tour operators instruct how to do so in the safety demonstration. I took the safer route, perhaps even too safe, but some went a whopping speed of 55km!

Checking off the insane “bucket list” event, we went to a local family’s house afterwards for a delicious meal and smores. I even held a two day old puppy! One of the volunteers at the hostel brought her over and the biggest smile gleamed across my face.

On the bus, I connected with a bunch of people and we all walked out like we’d known each other for years. I met Cole, another photographer who lived in a small town where my work was finalizing a construction project, and he also had a jellyfish tattoo. His sister and college friend were traveling alongside him and made our whole experience even more fun! Other people who made my time at Bigfoot memorable were Ishmael + Danielle, traveling from Belgium and Prague. Their energy was contagious and radiated off the group. Grateful for y’all!

Once the bus returned to the hostel, the night was far from over. The infamous Chicken Bus Fiesta kicked off. We climbed onto the side of the now colorfully illuminated bus while volunteers squirted liquor from soda bottles + water guns straight into our mouths. By the time we made it back everyone was drenched in booze, sweat, and laughter. It was messy, wild, and unforgettable. One of those moments I envisioned my twenties to be like – little Holly would think we were the coolest people ever

Because I went on a Saturday, the beach party fiesta was shortly after. I thought this was a separate event only hosted on Tuesdays. Next thing you know, I had a pink wristband alongside my fellow volcano boarders for the day to Las Penitas Beach. Bigfoot provides transportation with music and drinks, early 2000s music and Bad Bunny’s new album. Upon arrival, there’s a pool, plenty of drinks, and people dancing under the stars. Not sure if you’re typically able to go on the beach or not. Either way, the music + atmosphere was plenty for a fun night!

Unfortunately, we couldn’t walk on the beach due to strong currents, but the view was mesmerizing. Powerful yet gentle waves crashing onto the shore was hypnotizing. The perfect way to unwind with other travelers and keep the party going after such a crazy day. Cultivating stories I’ll tell my kids or future nieces/nephews. I laid on my back on the top hostel bunk and thought about how lucky I was. I work my ass off, but there are others who do as well and don’t have the time or circumstances to. I became cognizant I am making my childhood dream of traveling materialize. God, I love cosmic alchemy

I spent the remainder of the night dancing with our volcano boarding group and Abner, a fellow solo traveler we met during the salsa night in Granada and coincidentally was on the 6am bus from Granada to León with me. I know it’s cliche, but it was such a fun night I will never forget. Our entire Bigfoot group made it one of those nights that lingers long after you leave and I’ll share these stories for a long, long time.

Bigfoot Hostel & Volcano Boarding

Bigfoot Hostel in León is one of the most established and energetic hostels in Nicaragua. Known for its iconic volcano boarding tours, it has transmuted into a go-to for travelers looking to experience the adventurous side of the country. Dorm beds start at $10-$15 per night depending on room type/season, whereas private rooms with AC range from $30-$45. The hostel has an on-site bar and restaurant, pool, and packed schedule of daily events including beer pong tournaments, salsa nights, and the popular beach party fiesta.

Located in the heart of León, it is within walking distance of the city’s main attractions, markets, and cafés. Staff are helpful with travel planning and shuttle bookings across Central America. Whether you are traveling solo or with others, the social atmosphere makes it easy to meet people. If you want a stay combining affordable comfort with stories for life, Bigfoot is the place.

Dorms + Rooms

Gallery

Exploring Leon

Manana Manana Cafe

About a ten minute walk from the hostel is a popular restaurant, Manana Manana Cafe. I originally intended to go for breakfast, but after the beach fiesta, I “accidentally” slept until 11am. The restaurant stops serving breakfast at 9am. However, if I didn’t oversleep, I wouldn’t have surprisingly met up with Marie + Laura from the Treehouse Party! It was such a nice surprise to see them. I journaled for a bit, enjoyed their coffee, and chicken dishes.

Churches, Ice Cream, & People Watching

Catedral de la Asunción de León

Dominating the city’s skyline, the Catedral de la Asunción de León stands as a testament to Nicaragua’s colonial heritage. Constructed between 1747 and 1814, this UNESCO World Heritage Site seamlessly blends Baroque and Neoclassical architectural styles. The cathedral boasts 34 domes that flood its interior with natural light, creating a serene atmosphere!

Visitors can explore its expansive naves, the Baroque cloister, and the Patio del Príncipe. A climb to the rooftop offers panoramic views of León and the surrounding Maribios volcanic range. Unfortunately, I didn’t know it would be closed on Sundays. Still, the church was beautiful to observe from the ground. The cathedral additionally houses the tomb of Rubén Darío, Nicaragua’s national poet, adding to its cultural significance.

Kiss Me Ice Cream Shop

For a sweet treat, head to Kiss Me, a charming ice cream parlor located just north of De ViaVia. It’s located directly in front of Bigfoot. The shop offers unique options like Blueberry Lavender, Dark Chocolate with 70% cacao, and Cheesecake Guava. Nina and I made a quick stop here before walking around to explore. I ordered a mango ice cream cone and it was a great way to break the heat! The vibrant, pop-style decor and handcrafted waffle cones make it a delightful stop for dessert enthusiasts.

Mercado Central de León

Open daily from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM, this market offers a variety of fresh produce, meats, and traditional Nicaraguan dishes like baho, asado, and nacatamale . It’s an excellent spot to engage with locals, sample authentic cuisine, and shop for handmade crafts. I didn’t see many souvenir spots in Nicaragua, so this is the place to grab a few knick knacks in the country.

Dinner at La Basilica

Later that night, Nina and I grabbed dinner at La Basílica, a cozy spot recommended by one of the Bigfoot staff. It was tucked a few blocks from the center, with string lights, wooden tables, and the smell of grilled meat drifting through the courtyard. We were the only ones eating there, which made the place feel even more special, like a hidden gem we had all to ourselves. I ordered a chilled glass of cacao to drink, something I had never tried before. For dinner, I had steak with a side of gallo pinto and plantain chips. Soooo delicious!

Beer Pong + Pool Before Heading Back To MGA

I had a few hours to kill before leaving for my 1am shuttle back to the Managua airport, which is about two hours from León in the early morning. So I did what anyone would do in my position – joining a beer pong tournament with a mix of travelers and locals in the front of the hostel. I failed terribly as per usual, but had such a blast laughing through every missed shot.

I wandered into the adjacent room and played a few rounds of pool, soaking in the last bits of energy before heading out. I said my slightly melancholy goodbyes to new friends I had only known for days but felt like I had known for years. I left León smiling, grateful, and already dreaming of when I would one day return 🙂

If you’re headed from Leon to MGA, I’d recommend coordinating your flight for midday/afternoon. Bigfoot offers a shared shuttle at 9am for only $20. My flight back home was at 6am. after the delay Meaning, I needed to pay $80 for a private shuttle service (cash only.) Not the end of the world – but, it could have been prevented.

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Final Thoughts, Observations, Epiphanies

I’m thankful to be lucky enough to have traveled to 24 countries, and Nicaragua tops the list. Between the picturesque views, unique activities, and incredible people met, there was something so special about this solo trip. Nicaragua isn’t the most common travel destination, but I met plenty of backpackers + locals who made me feel at home and that I was exactly where I was meant to be. The culture, landscape, and opportunities here are beautiful and I’ll treasure these memories for the rest of my life. “Raw” is the word I’d use to describe Nicaragua; it’s not super touristy or flooded by commercialism.

Somewhere between tuk-tuk rides and hostel common areas, I started realizing how little the things that stress me out at home actually matter. I came solo, but never once felt like I was alone. People welcomed me without hesitation. I didn’t have to earn my place. I simply existed, and that was enough to have a seat at the table.

Nicaragua has a different rhythmic ontology from what I’m used to; days feel longer. People laugh harder; not as condensed. Most locals I met were genuinely happy to see travelers coming to experience their country. Not in a performative way, rather proud of where they’re from and excited to share. The hostel staff treated us more like friends than employees and even hugged me upon each departure; embracing we were all part of the same moment.

I met people who reminded me the world is a lot smaller than it seems. Tiny overlaps that didn’t feel accidental. You can call it coincidence, or you can just take it as a sign you’re exactly where you’re meant to be. I’ll go with the second one 🙂

I lost count of how many times I heard “Isn’t that like… really dangerous to travel there?” when telling people Nicaragua was my next stop. It’s important to mention I acknowledge my experience as a traveler from the US is going to be vastly different from locals. However, I’d counter this by saying each country has political issues and I felt safe for the most part visiting Nicaragua. 99% of the people I met were kind, welcoming, and extremely hospitable. As long as you are smart and don’t make stupid choices, you’ll be fine. This concept applies anywhere: don’t go out alone at night, drink excessively, or act obnoxious.

While Nicaragua faces political challenges that have understandably raised concerns, these issues generally do not impact day-to-day experiences of visitors. The country is navigating a complex political landscape that deeply affects many Nicaraguans. However, there is so much more to Nicaragua: its rich culture vibrant communities, interesting history, and breathtaking landscapes that make it a destination worth exploring with awareness and respect.

The only culture shock was the hefty amount of catcalling in Granada. In León, it wasn’t as frequent. Whenever I walked out alone, even during the day, I’d hear the whistles and understood what men were calling out. Varous other women at my hostel also encountered this. iAround the main parque areas, it reminded me of Thailand, where people overbearingly wave tour banners in your face. I was warned about this beforehand, so I was prepared. I never felt in danger, rather just annoyed. Not all parts of travel are glamorous and this is something I’ve accepted can/will happen. To stay safe, I’d recommend walking alongside other travelers when possible. This behavior is disrespectful and unwarranted, but it’s not representative of everyone in the country. Unfortunately, it’s a normalized part of life in these cities, even for locals, and it can happen anywhere in any country.

Still, those moments don’t define Nicaragua nor take away from the amicability shown by strangers, the staff who went out of their way to make me feel welcome, or the pride locals had in sharing their country with us. These experiences existed concurrently, and it’s possible to acknowledge both. Nicaragua is layered, full of heart, and absolutely worth visiting. The merriment, connection, and memories made meant more than a few passing comments ever could.

Thank you to everyone who made this trip through Nicaragua unforgettable. To the travelers I danced with, those who helped me get out of my comfort zone and somehow knew my names by the second day, those who invited me to grab lunch with them and share travel stories, and the strangers who approached me in conversation, breaking the ice and enriching every moment. You reminded me why I love this way of moving through the world. Why I write. Why I pay attention. Why I travel in the first place.

You helped me find pieces of myself hidden behind forthcoming moments I did not expect. In the silence of the summit at Cerro Negro. In the golden reflection of sunset over the isletas. In gallo pinto breakfasts shared on breezy patios. In salsa dancing classes and sleepily chatting in shuttles to the next city. It was what I needed and I’m forever grateful for everyone who made this trip what it was for me 🙂 Those moments will always be ours, and we’ll share them forever. Nunca te olvidaré ❤

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